peak climbing in nepal: mera peak climbing

Mera peak is considered one of the major and popular trekking peaks in Nepal. The Peak itself rises to the south of Everest. The ascent of the peak is technically straightforward, however, the heavy snow and the maze of crevasses can make the way longer to the summit.

Besides the charm of climbing Mera Peak, the trek to its base camp from Lukla is rewarding for experiencing little-visited and as yet unspoilt region of Nepal with densely forested hill sides. There are several approaches to the base camp besides the easy and normal route which is mentioned below. The routes crossing Amphu Labtsa (5,780m) and the Mingbo La (5,871m) provide some the most adventurous trekking with spectacular scenery through remote glaciated valleys and passes.

North Face Glacier from the Mera La.
The base camp can be set up at 5,300m near Mera La on the Hongu side in the moraine below the ice. From here a high camp is set at 5,800m near a rocky outcrop on the Mera Glacier. The high camp proves to be one to the most glorious viewpoints in Nepal offering the panoramic views of Kanchanjunga, Chamlang, Makalu and Baruntse sweeping around from the east and Amadablam, Cho Oyu and Kangtega to the west. The giant faces of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse appear in the north. There are three main summits which are climbable without much difficulty. The south summit (6,065m) is the most accessible with the Northern Summit (6,476m), the highest, which can be reached by skirting the Central Summit (6,461m) to the north and following snow ridge to its top. Climbing the middle summit requires ascent up on steep snow and is more technical. Mera North is straight-forward to climb.

mera peak climbing trip itinerary

Day 01 : Arrive Katmandu. Transfer to the hotel. Birfing in the evening.
Day 02 : Half day sight seeing of Katmandu and temples.
Day 03 : Fly to the village of Lukla (9,000 feet). A two hour hike to Bom.
Day 04 : Hike to Chutanga (13,100 feet), a small camp below the Zatrwa La.
Day 05 : Over the 15,200 foot Zatrwa La, a pass with our first stunning views of the Hinku Valley's mountains. Stay at Thuli Kharka (14,000 feet).
Day 06 : A full day of rhododendran "jungle" on the way to Khotar, a small settlement alongside a raging glacial river.
Day 07 : Trek to the village of Tagnag (14,460 feet), the largest village of this area, nestled between Mera Peak and Kusum Kangru, perhaps the most impressive and difficult of all the "trekking" peaks.
Day 08 : A well-deserved rest day in Tagnag ~ a lazy morning combined with an afternoon hike to the base of Kusum Kangru (21,145 feet).
Day 09 : A short day to Khare (16,200 feet) at the base of the Mera glacier.
Day 10 : Climb up and over the Mera La (glaciated, 17,400 feet) to a base camp at Rad Hora, just off the glacier.
Day 11 : Morning of rest, then learn and practice fixed rope techniques. Finish the day babying our hopefully successful team of Mera Peak climbers.
Day 12 : Descend from Mera Base Camp into the upper Hinku Valley and Tulu Dunga (16,100 feet).
Day 13 : Trek to Panch Pokhari (17,050 feet), a region of 5 glacial lakes, through incredible high wilderness.
Day 14 : Extra day reserved for bad weather in the Panch Pokhari basin.
Day 15 : A long day to Amphu Lapcha Base Camp (18,200 feet).
Day 16 : A day of technical climbing and descent over the Amphu Lapcha (19,000 feet) to Island peak base camp 5087m.
Day 17 : Rest day at island peak Base Camp
Day 18 : Climb Island peak 6,189m. Back to Base Camp.
Day 19 : our first "real" village in two weeks after Chukkung (15,700 feet).
Day 20 : Over the Kongma La (18,370 feet) to Lobuche.
Day 21 : To Gorak Shep (17,100 feet) and Everest Base Camp.
Day 22 : Climb Kala Patar (18,400 feet), then descend to Pheriche (14,076 feet).
Day 23 : To Deboche, then an afternoon visit to the monastery at Thyangboche (12,815 feet).
Day 24 : Trek to Namche Bazaar (11,420 feet).
Day 25 : Trek to Lukkla (9,000 feet).
Day 26 : Fly to Kathmandu.
Day 27 : extra day (or extra flight day if we have bad weather in Lukkla.
Day 28 : Departure day.

peak climbing in nepal

• Himchuli Peak Climbing
• Island Peak Climbing
• Lobuche Peak Climbing
• Mera Peak Climbing
• Pisang Peak Climbing
• Yala Peak Climbing